Orange blossom special
Reviews of a few new(ish) neroli fragrances, plus some older favorites
The late (but very pleasant) spring season put me in the mood for a few neroli-centered fragrances, so I’ve reviewed a few for Now Smell This; you can read my full post here. My picks (all launched in 2024) for this review were Régime des Fleurs Nitesurf Neroli, Essential Parfums Néroli Botanica, and Donna Karan Cashmere & Tunisian Neroli. Each of them incorporates a neroli note in its own interesting way. As the steam-distilled essence of orange blossoms (specifically, the flowers of bitter orange or citrus aurantium), neroli is a bright, cheerful floral with a hint of citrus that makes it especially versatile.
Looking at my perfume collection, I’ve been noticing that I also have a few longtime favorites in this category. Here are four of them!
The office-appropriate neroli: Chanel No. 5 L’Eau (Olivier Polge, 2016). Angela said on Now Smell This, “No. 5 L’Eau likes its neroli and opens with a orange-y waft of steam-iron aldehydes sweetened with rose. As it relaxes, it shows the barest kiss of white flowers and veers dangerously close to shampoo, but more sheer.” I agree. I’ve worn No. L’Eau on numerous occaisons when I’m giving a talk or tour and want to feel pulled-together but still “myself.”
The indie neroli: Jazmin Saraï Ma’re (Dana El Masri, 2018). This fruity-aquatic scent merges neroli with notes of lemon, fig, arak (a Levantine liqueur with an anise-like flavor), and Mediterranean woods. Ma’re evokes a specific coastal landscape, from citrus trees and sunlit water to the stones and fallen branches beneath your feet. Very uplifting, and natural-smelling. (I’m guessing it includes a high percentage of botanical materials along with carefully chosen aromachemicals.)
The Anglophile neroli: LBTY Liberty Maze (Gabriela Chelariu, 2023). A contemporary niche take on orange blossom. Fresh neroli, cottony white musk, Earl Grey tea, a few jasmine petals. This may not be a ground-breaking scent, but it’s not trying to be, either. Eminently wearable, and the textile-inspired packaging is delightful. I bought a travel spray in London but I’m glad to see that this collection is more widely distributed now.
The fantasy travel neroli: Ormonde Jayne Tanger (2020). Disclosure: Ormonde Jayne, knowing my longtime fondness for their brand, sent me a bottle of this one. I love it. Imagine an artisanal neroli creamsicle, and that’s Tanger. Kevin wrote on NST: “Tanger keeps its neroli active till the talc-y base, where it’s joined by faintest vanilla bean and a driftwood-like note. Tanger is a delightful, bold summer cologne.”
Do you have any favorite neroli perfumes? Let us all know in the comments!
I used to adore Annick Goutal‘s Neroli, but it seems that nothing about Goutal is what it used to be…were they bought out by private equity or something?
I recently acquired a small bottle of L‘Orchestre Flamenco Neroli, which has great lasting power with its spicy, woody background. Perfect for this temperamental spring weather. And it comes with its own song - a Spanish guitar riff accessible via QR Code. A gimmick, perhaps, but a very enjoyable one.
I just want to swim in neroli. Such an appealing note to me. Thanks for some recs to try!